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I have a Playbar, and a Samsung TV that won't pass through 5.1 from its optical out if the input is HDMI. Our Motorola cable box is connected to our TV using HDMI, and I want to get the 5.1 when I watch TV. I've looked through the questions and answers posted here and elsewhere, and it seems like some people have used an HDMI switch from Monoprice with an optical out to get around this problem. The suggestion is to connect the HDMI source to the HDMI switch, and the HDMI switch sends out the full 5.1 audio through the optical out and into the Playbar.

(I'll call this the 'HDMI switch' approach.) The other approach is to connect the cable box's optical out directly to the Playbar. (I'll call this the 'cable box direct' approach.) This works, but I don't like this approach because we leave our cable box on at all times, and when we turn off the TV, the Playbar still plays audio from the cable box, as the Playbar has no idea that the TV's been turned off. It's an inconvenience that I don't want to have to deal with. Note that with either approach, there is no physical connection from the TV to the Playbar. Having said all that, the main issue for me is that we use the TV's built-in Netflix and Amazon Video apps.

There was also an old site called 'Temple of CZ', and all those files are included in the zip file. Along with CZ-1 patches of the factory RC carts. Casio cz sysex patches clarence and mary. Here is a zipped file of all the CZ sysex files. Just unzip and it should create folders for the different type files. CZ-1 sysex have some extra bytes of info for names and velocity/aftertouch, so there are a few CZ-1 patches that I converted to CZ-101,1000,2000s,3000,5000 syx patches.

If I went with the HDMI switch approach, then, when we watch Netflix, there will be no audio sent to the Playbar. I looked into HDMI switches and ARC (using ARC to send the Netflix audio back to the HDMI switch, then out to the optical out), but this doesn't seem like it's been tested. I also thought about using an optical out switch, where I could switch between optical out sources. However, to do this, I would have to get an HDMI switch with optical out, then connect that optical output into the optical out switch, then to the Playbar. That seems like a lot of work/money/effort.

Any suggestions? I have a Samsung UN60JU7100 with the external connection hub that Samsung provides on newer TVs. All my HDMI sources STB for ATT Uverse, & PS4 connect via HDMI and the optical is connected from the Samsung hub to the Playbar. I was having issues with no DD 5.1 when watching AT&T Uverse cable and found the fix in the cable box settings. I had to switch the output on the STB to surround sound and then I was able to select Dolby Digital on the Samsung TV menu.

Now I get DD 5.1 for Cable, Netflix, and PS4 without having to go through a switch. I hope this helps everyone. I have a Samsung UE49KS7000 4K TV with a Samsung UBD-K8500/XU 4K Blu-ray player, Virgin Media cable box and Apple TV connected to the TV (via the Samsung external connection hub). I am considering purchasing the Playbar but I'm worried that I may encounter silence at any time e.g. From blu-ray discs or from the Netflix app or Amazon app on the TV. Will I merely get stereo for now (I am not purchasing a sub yet or any surround speakers)?

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I used to have a Yamaha digital sound projector connected but moved that upstairs since it didn't have 4K passthrough. I hope to expand the Playbar in the future but I've seen on other review sites that DTS is a big issue for the Sonos systems. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Samsung

SWJunkie wrote: Hi, yes, the problem is that many devices use EDID info coming from your TV to decide what audio data to feed to the TV. Almost all TV's report in EDID that they can receive only 2ch stereo (part of HDCP policy and copyright agreements. Yes, stupid, I know). You need to fake the EDID data to fool the source device to start to feed surround sound to your TV. But of course, in some cases, the TV really can't pass the surround sound to the digital audio output (HDMI ARC or Optical). But it's worth the try.

You can use HW devices to fake the EDID data (see the replies above). On Windows the EDID data can be faked by SW - no HW box needed between your Windows HTPC and TV. Just use utility 'Custom Resolution Utility' (search the web and download, it's easy to find) and create your own EDID according to your needs (create Custom extension block - add Audio formats 5.1, add Speaker setup 5.1, add HDMI support with 'Support audio information' checked) and restart Windows. Then you'll be able in Windows speaker setup to choose 5.1 to be fed to your TV.